SAKURA OR "FIRE TREES"?

Sakura or "Fire Trees"


Not so long ago I happened to mention the term “fire tree” in referring to some of the bright autumn tree colors that are appearing all over both the United States, Canada, and also Japan. One friend asked me which was more beautiful, sakura or “fire trees”. Such an interesting question! One that made me stop and think.

The short answer is “I have absolutely no idea!” For myself, I think I find autumn colors and “fire trees” the most dramatic; also, autumn is my favorite season of the year. I guess the real answer is subjective; that is, it depends on a person’s individual viewpoint.

In a real way, sakura blossoms (as well as ume or plumb) represent the rebirth of things, at the very beginning of spring, and the colors, a new beginning, and in bushido (the samurai philosophical code) it takes on the meaning of the perfection and imperfection of all things and the transience of all things, life especially, because once the blossoms appear, within a very short time, they whither and blow away.

Autumn leaves, especially maple trees, which come in such a wide variety of colors, from deep crimsons, flaming reds, regal golds, and yellows, come at the end of the year, when nature and things are in a sense, “passing away.” The end of a season, the end of life. So each has its own symbolism, and its own beauty. But each also has its own culture as well.

During the Heian Period (794 – 1191), the Japanese nobility sought to follow many traditional practices from China, including the social trend of flower viewing (hanami), where the imperial households, poets, singers, and other scholars, and aristocrats, would gather and celebrate under the blossoms. In Japan, the cherry trees (sakura) were planted and cultivated for their beauty, particularly as ornamentation for the imperial grounds, temples, and such of Kyoto, as early as 794 A.D. if not early. In China, the ume (plum) was held in very high regard along side of apricots and peaches, but in Japan, by the middle of the 9th century, the sakura had replaced all the other blossoms as the “favored species.”

Sakura blossom viewing is so important in Japan, and so looked forward to, that every year the Japanese Meteorological Agency and the public track the sakura zensen or “cherry blossom front” as it moves northward up the chain of the Japanese islands with the approach of warmer weather. Reports on television and radio of the progress of the sakura zensen are frequent and usually follow regular news broadcasts! The blossoming begins in Okinawa, typically in late January, and usually reaches Kyoto and Tokyo at the end of March or the beginning of April. I then proceeds into the areas of higher altitude and also northward, arriving in the far northern island of Hokkaido a few weeks later.

Japanese people pay close attention to these forecasts and turn out in huge numbers at parks, shrines and temples, in the company of both family and friends, to actually hold flower-viewing parties. Hanami festivals celebrating the beauty of the sakura offer many people a chance to relax and enjoy the beautiful view. The actual custom of hanami can be traced back many centuries in Japan. Actually the classic Japanese historic writings known as Nihon Shoki, written in the 8th century, reports hanami festivals being held as early as the 3rd century A.D.


Also of interest is that most Japanese schools and public buildings have sakura trees outside of them. Since both the fiscal (business) year and the school year both begin in April, in many parts of the main island of Honshu, the first day of work or school coincides with the sakura season.

Even in the United States, there are many who are “devout” cherry blossom viewers, especially in and around the nations capitol, Washington, D.C., where ornamental cherry trees are in abundance and the short blossoming time is spectacular.

Momijigari (from the Japanese words momiji for “red leaves” or “maple tree” and kari which means “hunting”) is the Japanese tradition of going out to visit scenic areas and viewing the leaves changing color in autumn. Many Japanese take part in this with the cities of Nikko and Kyoto being perhaps the most popular destinations. The tradition is said to have again originated in the Heian era, as a cultural activity and is one of the reasons that so many deciduous trees (those whose leaves change color) can be found in the region of Kyoto.


In the United States, the custom is known as “leaf peeping” in areas where foliage changes color. “Leaf peepers” as they are often called, are those who participate in photographing and/or viewing the often-dramatic autumn leaves. “Leafing” as the custom is also known, is a bit tricky sometimes because in many areas, the leaves are only visible for a very limited number of weeks, with “prime time” often just lasting one to three weeks.


So which is more beautiful? I guess it depends on whom you talk to, when, and where. Go out in the fall, and back out at the end of winter, look around and see what you think!

LET'S VISIT SEKIGAHARA!

Sekigahara

Sekigahara is a rural town on the southwestern edge of Gifu Prefecture with a small population of about 9000 people. The town and surrounding area was the site of the epic Battle of Sekigahara or Sekigahara gassen (関ヶ原合戦) (see below) between Tokugawa Ieyasu and Ishida Mitsunari, the representative of Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s son and designated successor, Toyotomi Hideyori. Ieyasu’s victory on 21 October 1600 signified the end of the Sengoku Era and the beginning of the Edo Period in Japanese history, with the feudal Tokugawa shogunate unifying all of Japan and moving the nation’s capitol from Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo). As a consequence, the town is filled with ruins, memorials and shrines to the dead, even down to place names such as Kurochigawa (“Black Blood River”), where the Tokugawa forces washed the cut-off heads of those fallen in battle.

A battle monument at the Sekigahara Museum.

The battle as well as the circumstances and intrigue leading up to the battle are fictionalized in the novel (and television serial movie) Shogun by James Clavell, telling of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s rise to fame (under the character’s name of “Toronaga”), through the Battle of Sekigahara and the gruesome death of Ishida (“Ishido” in the novel), who was captured as he ran away from the battlefield and executed by having his head slowly cut off by a wooden saw.

Sekighara Shrine

You can get to Sekigahara on the JR Tokaido Main Line, which passes through Sekigahara on its way between Osaka and Nagoya. The closes Shinkansen (Bullet Train) station is in Maibara. One of two hourly Hikari services from Tokyo stop here and then you can transfer to the Tokaido Line local for the 3-hour trip to Sekigahara.

Battle Re-enactment.

While Sekigahara is of major importance historically to the Japanese (much like the American Civil War and the Battle of Gettysburg), and there is a steady flow of Japanese history buffs and school groups, foreign visitors are not common. Among the things to see there are:

• Folk History Museum: Despite the misleading name, the museum concentrates mostly on the Battle of Sekigahara, charting the course of events with informative maps and interactive exhibits.



• Field Camp Ground: Just across the road from the museum is the spot where Tokugawa Ieyasu held a council meeting after the battle and was presented with the heads of the enemy’s leaders. A small shrine marks the spot.



• Memorial posts: These have been set up at most major battle sites but are only in Japanese.

Some of the people visiting the Sekigahara Festival.

A high school Taiko drum group performs .

Another of Sekigahara’s attractions (although non-martial) is the abundance of fireflies in the area. Lake Mishima is home to a particularly famous firefly view spot housing hundreds if not thousands on a good day. In fact, a firefly festival is held here in the early summer.

You can even have Tokugawa's lunch from the day of the battle!

Each year at this time, the town holds a festival and re-enactment of the Battle of Sekigahara, which draws thousands of people from all over Japan. Hundreds of people as well from as far north as Hokkaido and as far south as Kyushu come in costume to participate in the event. There is music, folk dancing and great food as well. If you are so inclined, you can even have the same lunch that Tokugawa Ieyasu or Ishida Mitsunari had on the day of the battle as well as sample the typical food of a samurai soldier. Samurai in full costume, including armor are everywhere and it is an exciting and fun time for everyone. Lots of things for the kids as well, in fact, many kids participate in the official activities!

The kids have a better solution to the battle, at the end, all the enemies become kitties!

One of the kids groups participating in the Sekigahara Festival.

Men and women alike participate in the festivities and re-enactment.

Tokugawa Ieyasu, Honda Tadakatsu and friends.

Ishida Mitsunari and friends go for ice cream!

The Battle of Sekigahara

The Battle of Sekigahara or “The Realm Divide) was a decisive battle fought on October 21, 1600, and the battle was the culmination of the Sekigahara Campaign and saw the defeat of the “Western Army” (geographically, the Southern Army). The battle was fought around a small village called Sekigahara that sat at a major crossroads, in the shadows of Mt. Sasao, Mt. Matsuo, and Mt. Nangu. In actuality, the choice of battlefields was inadvertent. Ishida Mitsunari had hoped to confront the forces of Tokugawa Ieyasu somewhere farther east, because Tokugawa’s primary had been Sawayama Castle. Ieyasu’s quick march west forced Mitsunari to offer him a fight that Tokugawa was thus more willing to accept, although the ground ultimately chosen did favor Mitsunari to some degree.

The Western Army troops occupied the high ground around Mt. Nangu and Mt. Matsuo, with Ishida Mitsunari himself positioned somewhat northwest of Sekigahara with Mt. Saso to his side. Ieyasu’s men were deployed along the Nakasendo (a major highway), with the advance guard facing Mitsunari; thus, exposed to an attack on their flanks, particularly by the western troops on Mt. Matsuo. Fortunately for Ieyasu, those men were under the command of Kobayakawa Hideake, who had already decided to betray his western allies.

The actual fighting on a rainy dawn and the outcome at that time was very much in doubt. The advanced Tokugawa units attacked and became heavily engaged with contingents under the command of Ukita Hideie, Otani Yoshitsugo, and Konishi Yukinaga. No true advantage was gained until the defection of Kobayakawa at about noon. Hideaki commanded one of the strongest of the western army forces present, and turned the tide in Tokugawa Ieyasu’s favor. In the meanwhile, the 25,000-plus western forces arrayed on the slopes of Mt. Nangu under the Mori and Chosokabe clans were largely inactive. Kikkawa Tsunie, commanding the front line forces, had himself decide not to fight Ieyasu and it was his lack of mobility that forced those to his rear to do the same.

Ultimately, the western forces began to break and general collapse and disaray followed. By the end of the day’s killing, Ishida Mitsunari’s forces had scattered and as many as 60,000 heads had been taken. Tokugawa's victory was owed in a large part then to Kobayakawa’s defection and the Mori inactivity. Ishida and Konishi Yukinaga were later captured and executed.

LET'S VISIT TAKAYAMA: PART 1

LET'S VISIT TAKAYAMA!

If you like Kyoto, you will love Hida-Takayama (高山市) ! Hida (飛騨) is the northern section of Gifu Prefecture in the Chūbu region of Japan. The name “Hida” comes from the fact that it was formerly part of Hida Province, before the formation of prefectures following the Meiji Restoration. While there are no official borders to the region, it includes the four towns of Takayama, Hida, Gero, and Shirakawa.

Takayama is often referred to as “Hida-Takayama” to differentiate it from Takayama in Gunma Prefecture, and Takayama in Nagano Prefecture. But for our purposes we just refer to it as “Takayama”. There is no place like it!. Takayama means “tall mountain” and because the city is located in what has come to be known as the “Japanese Alps”, as you stand and turn in a circle, that is exactly what you will see – tall mountains. There is a lot of snow in the winter and skiing is great! In fact, sometimes the snow is so heavy that the rail line and main highway are cut off for a day or two. But not to worry – there are lots of warm places to stay (both modern and traditional), lots of things to do, and lots and lots of great food to eat!

The city, actually more like a “city/county” kind of like Los Angeles, consists of Takayama and nine other towns and villages from the former Ono and Yoshiki districts. The city if famous for it’s background in carpentry; indeed, it is said that carpenters from Takayama worked on the Imperial Palace in Kyoto back in the Heian Period as well as temples both in Kyoto and Nara. The town and its culture took shape late in the 16th century and it was in the beginning of the 17th century that the town came under the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate. Due however to the high mountains which separate it from other areas of Japan, Takayama remained rather isolated’ thus, allowing it to develop its own culture. The city, in addition to carpentry is noted for its elegant lacquerware, pottery, and furniture. So when you visit Takayama be prepared to shop, shop, shop!

Takayama is known as well for its local food which includes mountain vegetables, wasakana or river fish, beef, soba, delicious ramen, and some great sake! So even if you are here in Takayama in the dead of winter, and the roads are closed, you can warm your body and spirit with great cuisine!

There is so much to see and do that we cannot describe it all here today. One thing you really want to do is to visit the eastern part of the city where there is a walking tour, called the Higashiyama Walking Course higashiyama-hokodo), which goes past many beautiful shrines and temples in Shiroyama Park. There are major festivals each year as well: Sanno Matsuri in the Spring and Hashiman Matsuri in Autumn. These are two of the most popular festivals in all of Japan!